Fall 2015
When I was growing up and learning how to cook, I burned a few dishes along the way. My mother, Gertrude, or my father, Horst, would ask me if I was using “Das Gewürz der Seligen.” The phrase comes from a German story that I was told several times. Loosely translated, it goes like this: A widower remarried and was not happy with his new wife’s cooking. No matter how carefully she prepared the meal, the widower complained that something, a particular spice, was missing. One day she accidentally burned dinner, but decided to serve it anyway, without comment, because her husband always had something to complain about. After taking his first mouthful, he beamed: “At last! You have found the spice of my blessed departed wife!” Das Gewürz der Seligen Sheesh. Those Germans. Gertrude rarely, if ever, burned dinners. She did have a unique way of preparing vegetables though—carrots, green beans and, yes, even broccoli. These vegetable side dishes were so tasty that she never had any trouble getting Frank, my brother, or me to eat them. Before she knew it was trendy, Gertrude used a technique that has become one of the buzzwords of today’s foodies. Caramelization, or giving some vegetables just a hint of a burn before serving, transforms ordinary carrots, beans or broccoli into nuggets of deliciousness. Gertrude accomplished this on the stovetop with a large covered skillet. Roasting vegetables in the oven under the broiler gives a similar result, but is inherently more dangerous. We never used the broiler in my house. Below are three recipes—the basic method is the same. In a little bit of water, cook the vegetables in a large covered skillet until they are barely done, al dente. Pour off any cooking liquid but save for later, add a couple of tablespoons of butter or olive oil and cook over high heat until the vegetables start to color. Pay close attention as the vegetables start to pick up some char; it is easy to overdo this technique. Stir frequently with a wooden spoon so that the veggies don’t stick. Add the cooking liquid back into the pan, stir to loosen up the browned bits, sprinkle on a bit of salt and serve.
Serves 4
Ingredients 1 pound broccoli, washed, trimmed and cut into little trees 2 tablespoons good olive oil 2 tablespoons water 1-2 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon rind 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Instructions 1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large skillet. Add in the broccoli and the water. 2. Cover, simmering over low heat until the broccoli is just barely done, 5-10 minutes. The water will cook off and there shouldn’t be much left in the pan. 3. Turn the heat up to high and add in the rest of the olive oil, the garlic and the red pepper flakes. Stir-fry the broccoli, being careful not to incinerate the garlic and pepper flakes. 4. When you’ve got a bit of a char on the broccoli, toss with the fresh lemon juice and lemon rind. 5. Sprinkle with salt and serve.
Ingredients 1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into thick coins on a diagonal or a 1 pound bag of baby carrots 3 tablespoons butter, divided 3 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger root 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Instructions 1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet. Add in the carrots. Swirl the carrots around the butter, add the water and cover 2. Lower the heat and simmer until the carrots are just crisp-tender, about 10-15 minutes. If you use those fat baby carrots, they can take up to 20 minutes to cook. Pour off any accumulated cooking liquid and reserve it. 3. Turn the heat up to high and add in the rest of the butter, the honey and the grated ginger root. Stir now and then, and remove from the heat just after the carrots have taken on some good color. 4. Add the cooking liquid back in and stir loosening up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. 5. Sprinkle with some salt and serve.
Ingredients 1 pound fresh or frozen string beans. If you can find Italian (“Roma”) green beans, give them a try—they are delicious. 3 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon Bohnenkraut (summer savory—they probably sell it at the German butcher). You could use fresh parsley if you can’t find the Bohnenkraut. 3 tablespoons water ½ teaspoon salt, or to taste
Instructions 1. If you are using fresh beans, wash and stem them before cooking. Cut into 2-inch lengths. Frozen beans go right into the pan out of the bag. Check for the occasional stem and remove. 2. Melt all of the butter in a large skillet. Add in the Bohnenkraut, if you have it, and then add the beans. Swirl the beans around in the melted butter and herbs, add in 3 tablespoons water and cover. 3. Simmer over low heat until the beans are just crisp-tender, about 10-15 minutes. Pour off any accumulated cooking liquid and reserve it. 4. Turn the heat up to high and stir the beans now and then. When most of the beans have a bit of a singe, add the cooking liquid back in and stir, loosening up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle with salt and serve.